Quinault Traverse

A difficult beyond-the-trails trip may be made between the 
two branches of the Quinault River. This cross-country 
traverse follows, in part, the footsteps of the troopers 
Lieutenant Joseph P. O'Neil sent to Mount Olympus in 1890, 
and crosses the Burke Range via Bretherton's Pass.

The traverse begins at the end of the old Pyrites Creek 
Trail above The Crow's Foot. Beyond this point one can 
climb steep slopes to the ridge that overlooks Godkin 
Creek. The view down this major tributary of the Elwha 
makes the ascent worthwhile, and Mount Christie and Mount 
Taylor are also visible. Once the ridge is gained, the 
backpacker can travel over rugged terrain to Bretherton's 
Pass (2.5 mi/4.0 km; 4330 ft/1320 m), which was named for 
Bernard J. Bretherton, the naturalist with the O'Neil 
expedition. A good campsite is located at the western edge 
of this broad, flat saddle; another can be found at Lake 
Danton, a half mile to the south.

At this point one can make a side trip, traveling in a 
southwesterly direction through beautiful subalpine country 
to Muncaster Basin, a wildlife paradise. Elk and bear are 
numerous, and because the area is remote, having few 
visitors, the animals have remained wild. The bears run 
away when they see people; the elk herds are wary but can 
be observed on the high, grassy slopes.

Beyond Bretherton's Pass the route climbs over Mount Taylor 
to avoid impassable cliffs, then traverses to Elk Bones 
Pass (5.5 mi/8.9 km; 4800 ft/1463 m), where water is 
available. The route traverses steep heather slopes and 
rock slides to Christie Col (7.0 mi/11.3 km; 5000 ft/1524 
m), at the head of Martin's Park, then descends to the 
Martin's Park Trail, striking the path at the big 
switchback below Martin's Lakes (7.5 mi/12.1 km; 4400 
ft/1341 m).