STAIRCASE RAPIDS TRAIL Length 3.5 mi/5.6 km Access FS Road 24 USGS Map Mount Skokomish Agency Olympic National Park This delightful trail, popular with hikers, both novice and veteran, leads to beautiful scenes as it follows the North Fork Skokomish River to Four Stream along the route taken by the O'Neil expedition in 1890. The trail then climbs above Four Stream and ends abruptly. The route is entirely in the deep forest, which consists of fir, hemlock, and western red cedar. The huge trees rise above lush undergrowth that is almost as luxuriant as that in the rain forests. The trail begins at the end of FS Road 24 across the river from Staircase Ranger Station at the edge of the clearing that was formerly occupied by the Staircase Resort (800 ft/244 m). Near the trails beginning, a side path leads, left, to the remains of a giant western red cedar that fell in January 1999, apparently from old age. About 14 feet in diameter, it was one of the largest trees in the valley and estimated to be eight hundred years old. The tree had been admired for years by hundreds, perhaps thousands, of visitors and had often been photographed. The trail then comes out onto the banks of the Skokomish. The crystal clear stream, every rock on the bottom visible, flows rapidly here, the rushing water muffling the twittering of the birds that dwell in the forest. Another side path descends to picturesque Red Reef Pool, where the river has cut a narrow channel through a dike composed of red limestone. The stream surges wildly through the break into a deep basin or pool, where the upwelling water, releasing air gathered during its mad rush, bubbles like champagne. The trail then climbs a bit, and another path leads, right, to Dolly Varden Pool, which is bordered by rock ledges. Although not as scenic as Red Reef Pool, it is nonetheless impressive because the river boils and foams as it plunges over huge boulders. Above the pools the trail winds through conifer forests beside the river, which cascades down a narrow defile. The path then edges Staircase Rapids (0.8 mi/1.3 km), where the stream flows over a series of low terraces. Tall trees shade the banks, and cool breezes are usually present. The name Staircase derives from The Devils Staircase, as O'Neil's route over Fishers Bluff became known in the 1890s, after a visitor called it that upon returning from a trip up the river. The path at that time was largely a staircase of roots to which one had to cling when climbing up and down the bluff. Eventually the place became known simply as Staircase, and the name was later given to the rapids. Beyond Staircase Rapids the trail veers away from the Skokomish and climbs Dead Horse Hill, the moraine deposited by the alpine glacier that came down the valley during the Ice Age. Near the top a path leads, right, to the closed Rapids Bridge. Here, one could formerly make a connection with the North Fork Skokomish Trail, to create a 2-mile hike from and to the ranger station. However, the bridge was so badly damaged by storms during the winter of 1998-99 that it was rendered unusable. Past the bridge the trail descends to Beaver Flats, a swampy area covered with cedar, fir, and moss-padded maple, alder, and cottonwood. This place is attractive any time, but especially during the spring, when the new growth appears, and in October, when the maple leaves turn golden. Unfortunately, the Beaver Fire, ignited during hot, dry weather by hikers who built an illegal campfire, damaged the area in August 1985. The dead, blackened trees contrast starkly with the surrounding verdant growth. Leaving the burned district, the trail goes by Copper View Camp (1.7 mi/2.7 km), located where the river makes a big curve. This camp provides a good view downstream of Copper Mountain. Four Streams (2.0 mi/3.2 km) commemorates the O'Neil expeditions fourth mule trail camp, which was located nearby. The trail crosses the creek, climbs a bit, and then forks. The left branch (little used because it doesn't really lead anywhere) switchbacks upward through stands of hemlock, fir, and cedar, turns south and parallels Four Stream, then crosses into the national forest, where it comes to a dead end (3.5 mi/5.6 km; 1800 ft/549 m). The right branch, which is merely a stub, leads down to a riverside camp located in a grove of giant firs. Beyond the camp one can travel cross-country up the river and find traces now and then of O'Neil's mule trail leading to the South Branch, or Jumbo's Leap (Five Stream), and the West Branch (Six Stream). O'Neil's troopers gave Jumbo's Leap the name to the South Branch when an old hound named Jumbo made a desperate leap into the canyon. After the Cushman Dam was built, enlarging Like Cushman, the trail up the river was relocated on the east side as far as Big Log Camp, where it crossed and rejoined O'Neil's trail. The old section between Four Stream and Big Log Camp was then abandoned-and such historic scenes as Jumbos Leap and Honeymoon Falls, once familiar to many, became virtually unknown. However, these places may become well known again in the near future. In 1982 the Bremerton, Washington, Order of the Arrow Chapter of the Chief Seattle Council, Boy Scouts of America, with the approval of the National Park Service, marked the route of the O'Neil Trail from Four Stream to Seven Stream. The organization registered the entire route of the O'Neil expedition's mule trail as a historic hiking trail with National Headquarters, Boy Scouts of America. Previously, the Order of the Arrow Chapter had marked and registered the route of the Press Expedition (via the Elwha, Goldie, and Quinault Rivers) as a historic hiking trail.