Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains
By Olympic Mountain Rescue, Olympic Mountain Rescue Council, Olympic Mountain 
Rescue (Society), Olympic Mountain Rescue (Society)

North Peak ca. 6800 (2073 m)

Route 1, II, 3. After reaching Lunch Rock on Route I. South Peak, traverse upward 
toward SE spur and contour into the eastern Great Basin. An alternate route is to 
descend from the South Peak summit into the same basin, dropping below, the prominent 
buttress. From the basin, ascend a couloir and moderate rock to the small summit. 
Time: 9 hours, up from camp at Lena Creek forks.

Route 2. II, 3. This route should be done in early season because of later heavy 
brush. From camp on the East Fork of Lena Creek (see Route I, South Peak), proceed 
up the far right branch of the East Fork about 3/4 miles. Near the upper end of the 
valley, climb westerly up into the eastern Great Basin. From the basin, climb the 
snow couloir of Route 1 or make an ascending traverse around to the N slope of the 
peak, and proceed up the N ridge to the summit. Time: 9 hours up from camp

Route 3. II, 4. First ascent 1970 by R. Beckett, H. Pinsch, L. Triboulet, 
and R. Yekel.
Take the Murhut Creek logging road, #253Q (see Duckabush River approach) to where 
it reaches the saddle between Cabin Creek and the E fork of Cliff Creek 
(ca. 4100 ft.). Ascend wooded ridge W and S until reaching a narrow rocky ridge 
(ca, 30 minutes) which extends all the way W to the summit. At about 4900 ft., 
crossing to the N side and traversing to the meadow on the N slopes of the peak 
may bypass the ridge's gendarmes. Continue as in Route 2. Time: 10 hours up from 
road; 10 hours down.

Brothers Traverse

First traverse S to N in 1939 by R. Carlow, D. Dooley, B. Henderson, W. Ingalis, 
E. Johnson, and S. Nelson. A sporting III.4. traverse can be made from either 
summit to the other in 3-4 hours.


MT. LENA (Mt. BALDY)  5995 (1827 m)

Located 1/2 mile north of Upper Lena Lake.

Route 1,1   From Lena Lake; proceed on the trail 4.3 miles to Upper Lena Lake 
(ca. 4500 ft,). Walk N and W up easy slopes to the top. Time: 6 hours up from road.

Mt. BRETHERTON   5960 (1817 m)

An elongated double-summated peak located 1 mile south of Upper Lena Lake.

Route 1. 1,2. From Upper Lena Lake proceed S past Milk Lake and ascend the higher (S) 
summit via a saddle and upper basin traverse, As an alternate route from Upper Lena 
Lake, ascend the N ridge and cross the N summit to the higher S summit Time: 2 hours up 
from Upper Lena Lake.

Route 2. 1,2 From the Hamma Hamma River road near the Boulder Creek bridge (12.1 miles 
from U.S. 101) follow the Putvin trail to where it crosses an old logging road 
(1.3 miles). Follow the old road (ca. 2.5 miles) N until it crosses Boulder Creek. 
Leave the road, climbing E along edge of logging area until ridge crest is reached. 
At ridge, cross N of large gendarme to E side of ridge. Work N along the ridge just 
below crest to the saddle between peak 5464 and the main ridge to the W. Proceed N 
through the saddle and descend a snow slope to bypass a buttress on its E side. Work 
back to ridge crest crossing to W side. Continue N to the higher S summit. Time: 1 
hour up from road.