HIGH DIVIDE - BAILEY RANGE TRAIL

Length 6.2 mi/10.0 km
Access Bogachiel Trail; Hoh Lake Trail; Soleduck Trail 
USGS Maps Mount Carne; Bogachiel Peak Agency Olympic National Park

This trail provides the hiker with vistas that are among the best in the 
Olympics. The route is noted for its succession of spectacular views of 
Mount Olympus, the Bailey Range, and the valleys of the Bogachiel, Hoh, 
and Soleduck. The sunrises and sunsets observed from vantage points along 
the way are often outstanding. During the night fog frequently forms in 
the valleys, and sometimes it cloaks the ridges and peaks in heavy misc. 
The trail is popular and regularly traveled. During the summer people are 
constantly coming and going in both directions, especially on the High 
Divide section. But in late fall, or when the weather is stormy, the hiker 
can experience solitude.

The route follows the High Divide, and then skirts the Bailey Range at the 
5000-ff/ 1524-m levels, ending abruptly on the south side of Cat Peak. The 
High Divide forms the watershed between the Hoh and Soleduck and the Bailey 
Range that are between the Hoh and Elwha. The ridge forming the High Divide 
extends from Bogachiel Peak to the head of Cat Creek, a tributary of the 
Elwha, and the elevation averages about 5000 ft/1524 m. Snow piles up to 
great depths here during the winter, particularly on the northern slopes, 
which extend down into Seven Lakes Basin and Soleduck Park. The snowfall on 
the Bailey Range is probably greater still.

The trail begins on the south side of Bogachiel Peak at an intersection 
(5200 ft/ 1585 m) with the Hoh Lake Trail and the Bogachiel Trail. This 
point overlooks the Hoh Valley, Mount Olympus, and the Bailey Range. One 
can also look down the upper Bogachiel from this gap in the ridge. The path 
then traverses the side hill below the summit to a junction with a spur 
(0.2 mi/0.3 km) that climbs about 200 yards to the top of Bogachiel Peak, 
where a fire lookout cabin once stood (5474 ft/1668 m).

The side trip to the summit is a must for every hiker. The panorama includes 
virtually the entire northwest corner of the peninsula. The Bogachiel River 
winds westward in sweeping curves toward the foothills. The distant valley, 
clothed with virgin forest, fades into a purplish haze, but on clear days 
the Pacific Ocean is sometimes discernible as a band of blue. The view to 
the north includes Seven Lakes Basin, while directly east are the slopes of 
the High Divide and, beyond them, the Bailey Range. Southward, across the 
deep Hoh Valley, stands Mount Olympus, a massive pile of rock, snow, and ice.

Beyond Bogachiel Peak the trail goes up and down as it follows the High Divide, 
often utilizing the gentle swales and humps of ridge-top depressions. The 
slopes fall away steeply on the timbered south side to the Hoh, which contrasts 
markedly with the meadowland on the north side facing the Soleduck. Olympus 
and the Bailey Range are almost always in full view-the latter a long, curving 
chain of peaks that parallels the upper Hoh. The glacier-scoured Seven Lakes 
Basin lies north of the divide, and one looks down upon its many lakes-patches 
of deep blue, varied in shape, in a pastel landscape. Elk frequent this region 
during the summer and autumn, often congregating near the pools or on the snow
fields. Occasionally bears are observed. Wildflowers are everywhere-avalanche 
lilies, lupine, common bistort, bluebells, columbine, monkey flowers, daisies, 
gentians, beargrass, and both red and white mountain-heather.

A good campsite is located in the broad, grassy saddle (0.9 mi/1.4 km; 5000 ft
/ 1524 m) at the eastern base of Bogachiel Peak, but one must go down into the 
basin to obtain water.

Beyond this point the trail climbs up and down as it follows the divide, 
passing scree slopes and meadows on the left, stands of subalpine fir and mountain 
hemlock on the right. The path then crosses the southern end of an abutting ridge 
that extends northward between Seven Lakes Basin and Soleduck Park and descends 
to a junction with the Soleduck Trail (2.1 hii/3.4 km; 5050 ft/ 1539 m) above 
Heart Lake. The trail now overlooks the beautiful uplands of Soleduck Park, the 
meadow country at the head of the Soleduck River, and then climbs over the south 
end of Cat Creek Ridge (3.0 mi/4.8 km; 5100 ft/1554 m) where the ridge abuts the 
High Divide. Here one can see Mount Appleton and Appleton Pass.

Upon leaving the High Divide, the trail descends through meadows and stands of 
subalpine fir and mountain hemlock to the head of Cat Creek. The view of Mount 
Olympus from points along here includes the Blue Glacier. An excellent campsite 
is located by Ocarina Lake, a small tarn below the trail (3.4 mi/5.5 km; 4900 ft/
1494 m). Beyond the lake the trail descends to a junction with the Cat Creek Way 
Trail (4.0 mi/6.4 km; 4500 ft/1372 m).

The trail reaches its low point in the saddle at the head of Cat Creek (4390 ft/ 
1338 m), where it goes through dense stands of subalpine trees. The shade is 
welcome, particularly on hot days, and refreshing breezes are often present. The 
path is smooth, almost like walking on a carpet, and it goes by several black 
pools and crosses a heather-and-huckleberry slope that overlooks Cat Creek 
Valley. The trail then traverses above jumbled piles of boulders and comes out 
into a meadow at the foot of Bear Grass Hill (5.1 mi/8.2 km; 4800 ft/1463 m) on 
the flanks of Cat Peak. A sign here indicates this is the end of the maintained 
trail and that the route beyond is unsafe for horses.

As the name implies, the slopes of Bear Grass Hill are covered with an abundance 
of beargrass and huckleberry bushes. Exposed to long hours of sunshine, the 
berries ripen to a delicious sweetness. When the beargrass is in blossom, it 
blankets the hillside meadows like fields of cotton. Mount Olympus looms directly 
ahead, across the Hoh Valley.

The trail now contours high above the Hoh along the steep slopes of the Bailey 
Range. Here one has an unobstructed view up and down the river, and the 1978 Hoh 
Lake burn is visible. The path, blasted from solid rock, traverses mountainsides 
cut by gullies and avalanche paths. At one such crossing, a little stream trickles 
from the rocks about 50 feet below the trail (5.5 mi/8.9 km). This is the only 
source of water along this part of the route.

The path ends abruptly and the hiker is confronted by a cliff (6.2 mi/10.0 km; 
5000 ft/1524 m). This point is about 300 feet below the western end of The Catwalk, 
the narrow arête linking Cat Peak with Mount Carrie. When the trail builders 
reached this point, the National Park Service ran out of funds with which to 
complete the project. This was about the time the United States became involved 
in World War II, when trail-building operations were suspended. The trail had 
been projected to connect with the Long Ridge Trail near Ludden Peak.

The popular Bailey Range Traverse (sec Appendix 1) begins where the trail ends but,
but it should not be attempted by the hiker who is inexperienced at cross country travel.