NORTH FORK SKOKOMISH The Skokomish River flows through the southeastern Olympics to Hood Canal. The river's two branches—the North Fork and the South Fork—come together about 7 miles from the Big Bend of the canal. The North Fork Skokomish has its source in a glacier and snowfields on Mount Skokomish, on the national park boundary, and makes a big loop through the southeastern Olympics, leaving the park a mile below Staircase, where it flows into Lake Cushman. This branch of the river is bounded on the east by rugged peaks composed of basalt—Stone, Skokomish, Henderson, Copper, and the Sawtooth Range, which extends from Mount Lincoln to Mount Cruiser. The valley is bordered on the north and west by other peaks, largely sandstone, that are equally precipitous— Hopper, Steel, Duckabush, and the ridge extending from Mount Duckabush to Mount Olson. During the Ice Age, an alpine glacier moved down the valley of the North Fork Skokomish, deepening it, and the Cordilleran Ice Sheet pushed westward against and into the Olympics, depositing material that dammed the river. This combined action created Lake Cushman, which was discovered and named in 1852. The original lake covered about a square mile, but it was enlarged approximately 600 percent in the mid-1920s, when the City of Tacoma built a power dam on the North Fork about 5 miles below the lake. The reservoir inundated the lake as well as several miles of the river. The lake contains king salmon, and several kinds of trout— rainbow, Eastern brook, silver, and Dolly Varden. Within the national park, above Lake Cushman, the North Fork often forms dark pools, then plunges through rock- walled channels, with a show of white water, as it tumbles over boulders. Then, again, the river may flow at a smooth and tranquil pace. The stream has numerous tributaries— short ones flowing from the east, longer ones coming from the west. Ridges that lie at right angles to the river parallel the latter. Six Stream is the largest tributary. Several creeks—Four Stream to Nine Stream, inclusive—were named for camps of the 1890 O'Neil expedition. The upper valley, within the national park, is a splendid example of primeval landscape. The ever-changing vistas are accompanied by the music of the Skokomish as it dashes over rocks, its cascades scintillating in the sunlight. The forest here contains some of the finest Douglas fir and western red cedar in the national park. Trees more than 250 feet tall, with diameters of 6 to 8 feet, are common. Because the valley has a southerly orientation, the rainfall is heavy, resulting in a luxuriance of plant growth that rivals the rain forests of the western Olympics. Most of the trails in this watershed are located in the national park, but several short ones are found in the national forest. The North Fork Skokomish was explored in 1890 by the O'Neil expedition and by a party led by Judge James Wickersham. Since that time, however, the lower part of the valley has been savagely exploited, and the approach now gives little hint of the beauty to be found within the national park. ROADS Jorsted Creek Road (FS Road 24). This road, formerly designated as 2450, begins on US 101, 2.3-mi/3.7 km south of Eldon. The route first goes through private and state land. The Lilliwaup Camp and Picnic Area (6.9 'mi/11.1 km) are maintained by the Department of Natural Resources. At 7.2-mi/11.6 km, FS Road 2419, the Big Creek Road branches to the right. After entering the Olympic National Forest, FS Road 24 intersects the Hoodsport Road (8.8 mi/14.2 km). Big Creek Campground is located just beyond the junction. The road crosses Big Creek, and then traverses above Lake Cushman. Cushman Falls (11.1 mi/17.9 km) plunge down the cliffs on the right. They were named for Alfred Cushman, who visited the lake out of curiosity in the 1890s, having seen the name Lake Cushman on a map. He remained and took a home- stead near the falls. Lightning Peak, originally called Storm King, is visible straight ahead. The peak was denuded by a forest fire in the early 1900s, and the blaze made enough light that one could read a newspaper at midnight 4 miles away at Cushman House, William T. Putnam's resort on the lake. Beyond the Mount Rose Trail (11.5 mi/18.5 km), the road winds along the shores of Lake Cushman to a junction with FS Road 2451, the Lightning Peak Road (14.0 mi/22.5 km), at the head of the lake. When the reservoir's level is low, hundreds of giant stumps are visible, the ghosts of a once great forest. The Bear Gulch Picnic Area is located just beyond this junction. At this point the road goes into the virgin forest and enters Olympic National Park (14.2 mi/22.9 km). Here a surprise greets the visitor: the graveled road changes to blacktop. Within the park the scarred lands are left behind, and the road penetrates a region little changed by the hand of man. Bordered by towering firs, the road follows the North Fork, ending at the Staircase Ranger Station (15.2 mi/24.5 km; 800 ft/244 m), and an automobile campground. At this point trails radiate into the surrounding country. Hoodsport Road (County Road 44). This road begins at Hoodsport on Hood Canal and climbs over low hills, then through the Cushman Recreation Area, where summer homes have been built in the forest. The sinuous road climbs through second-growth forest to a viewpoint (6.0 mi/9.7 km) that looks across the lake to Mount Washington and Mount Ellinor. Lake Cushman State Park (7.0 mi/11.3 km) has facilities for overnight camping. The road ends where it intersects FS Road 24 (9.0 mi/14.5 km). (The route to the national park now turns left and follows FS Road 24.) Big Creek Road (FS Road 2419). This road begins 7.2-mi/11.6 km from Hood Canal on FS Road 24. The road climbs halfway up Mount Ellinor and Mount Washington and provides access to the trails on these peaks. Lightning Peak Road (FS Road 2451). This logging road branches left from FS Road 24 at the head of Lake Cushman, crosses a causeway to the west side of the Skokomish, then climbs to the upper watersheds of Elk Creek and Four Stream.