HAMMA HAMMA One of the smaller rivers in the Olympics, the Hamma Hamma is less than 20 miles long and does not penetrate deeply into the mountains. The headwaters lie on the national park boundary in the Sawtooth Range, and except for the last few miles the river flows through the Olympic National Forest. Hamma Hamma is an Indian name meaning "big stink"—a reference to the unpleasant odor left by decaying salmon that died after spawning. The North Fork Skokomish River forms a crescent around the headwaters of the Hamma Hamma, and the peaks on the divide between the streams—they include Washington, Pershing, Cruiser, Skokomish, and Stone—are as rugged as the higher peaks deeper in the Olympics. However, they are too low to support glaciers other than tiny, more or less stagnant patches of ice, although permanent snowfields are extensive. The ridges between the Hamma Hamma and the Duckabush district, to the north, are dominated by The Brothers, one of the most conspicuous peaks visible from Puget Sound. Lena Creek, the river's major tributary, has its source in the national park, but most of the other streams lie entirely in the national forest. The lower slopes of the Hamma Hamma watershed were extensively logged in the early 1900s, and most of the virgin forest that survived the timber-cutting operations was destroyed by fire. Consequently, many weather-beaten snags rise above the heavy stands of second-growth fir that now mask the rough terrain. Thus this valley lacks the primitive aspect that characterizes much of the Olympics. ROADS Hamma Hamma River Road (FS Road 25). This road, formerly designated as 2490, leaves US 101 on Hood Canal, 2.3-mi/3.7 km north of Eldon, and ends in rugged, mountainous country on the upper Hamma Hamma. After the first mile, the route becomes a one-lane, blacktopped road with turnouts for passing. The views include the Hamma Hamma Valley to the left, and rugged, snow-flecked peaks ahead. As it climbs above Hood Canal into the foothills, the road traverses north of the river and enters the Olympic National Forest (4.9 mi/7.9 km), where a side road (5.7 mi/9.2 km) leads to the Hamma Hamma Ranger Station. Beyond the Hamma Hamma Campground (6.0 mi/9.7 km), the road intersects FS Road 2502, the Cabin Creek Road (6.3 mi/10.1 km), then FS Road 2480 (6.4 mi/fO.3 km), which crosses the river and provides access to the country to the south. The pavement ends here, but FS Road 25 continues up the valley past the Lena Lake Trail and Lena Creek Campground (7.7 mi/12.4 km; 650 ft/198m), which is a good place to stay overnight. The campground is primitive, with an old- fashioned water pump and outhouses; thus hikers feel more like they are camping out here than they do when they stay in the developed national park campgrounds. Beyond Lena Creek the country becomes increasingly wild and rugged, and at Boulder Creek (11.7 mi/18.8 km) a marker stands beside the road: "Near here is die grave of Carl Putvin, pioneer, trapper, and explorer. Born September 4, 1892, died January 10, 1913." At 12.0-mi/19.3 km the Boulder Creek Road (FS Road 2466) branches to the right. FS Road 25 then crosses Whitehorse Creek. The valley narrows and the road crosses the Hamma Hamma River—here in a deep, narrow gorge—over a steel and concrete bridge that leads nowhere. The road ends abruptly on the opposite side at a turnaround and parking area (13.1 mi/ 21.1 km), where the Mildred Lakes Way Trail begins. FS Road 2480: This road branches left from FS Road 25, the Hamma Hamma River Road, 6.3 mi/10.1 km from US .101 and crosses the river. At 0.3 mi/0.5 km FS Road 2421 branches to the right. This spur goes 1.5-mi/2.4 km, ending in a turnaround where two trails begin—the Elk Lake Trail and the Jefferson Ridge Trail. Beyond the junction with FS Road 2421, the road continues to a junction with FS Road 24 at Jorsted Creek. Boulder Creek Road (FS Road 2466). This road, which is not maintained for public travel, branches right from the Hamma Hamma River Road 12.0 mi/19.3 km from Hood Canal. The road climbs steadily, paralleling Boulder Creek, and it is closed by a slide (0.8 mi/1.3 km), where limited parking is available. Jefferson Creek Road (FS Road 2401). This road leads from FS Road 2480 to Elk Lake, then follows Jefferson Creek past Jefferson Lake, ending near the northeastern base of Mount Washington. The western end of the Elk Lake Trail is located on this road.