LONG RIDGE TRAIL Length 13.0 mi/20.9 km Access Elwha Trail USGS Maps Hurricane Hill; Mount Queets Agency Olympic National Park This route replaced the old Long Creek Trail, which has been abandoned for years. Although bits of the latter remain, often one can find no indication of a path at all, then at times discern a faint trace that indicates where the trail may have been. Because the route is choked with countless windfalls, it is not worthwhile to attempt to follow the old trail. The Long Ridge Trail, its successor, climbs from Geyser Valley to Ludden Peak, most of the way ascending aptly named Long Ridge, which extends north from Dodger Point. The hiker should carry water because it is not available (at least after midsummer) until one approaches the turns below Dodger Basin. Beginning at Michaels Ranch on the Elwha Trail, the path goes by the intersection with the Krause Bottom Trail (0.2 mi/0.3 km), which leads to Humes Ranch, then contours the mountainside. Beyond Idaho Creek, it turns directly south and descends to the Elwha, crossing the river where it emerges from Convulsion Canyon (1.2 mi/1.9 km; 875 ft/267 m). The Elwha formerly broadened below this point and flowed quietly through the bottomlands. However, in 1967 a slide in the canyon dammed the stream temporarily, and when the river broke through, the impounded water swept away the old footbridge and tore out huge chunks of land, thus changing the stream's course. On the west side, tons of gravel and other debris were deposited among the trees, killing most of them; thus a ghost forest now borders the river on that side. The present suspension bridge was built subsequent to the flood. The trail angles left at an unmarked junction with the Anderson Ranch Trail (1.3 mi/2.1 km) then climbs to the northern end of Long Ridge through stands of second-growth fir. The virgin forest was destroyed by fire years ago, but a few large trees survived. Beneath the trees the ground is padded with moss, and all is silent except for the trills of winter wrens. The little birds flit through the bushes and peer with curious, friendly eyes at the intruder. Other birds likely to be observed include the varied thrush and the blue grouse. Upon gaining the ridge, at a junction with the Seek Way Trail (2.0 mi/3.2 km; 1600 ft/488 m), the path turns southward. The terrain flattens hut the trail climbs steadily, almost imperceptibly, through stands of old Douglas fir festooned with lichen. Dense thickets of salal cover the ground. The trail then leaves the ridge and switchbacks through forests on the Elwha side. Here one has views of the Elwha Valley and can look across to Hurricane Ridge. Again the trail climbs toward the ridge crest-a gradual ascent by means of several long, sweeping switchbacks. Upon crossing over to the west side, where the terrain is gentler, the trail traverses above Long Creek. The Bailey Range - dominated by Mount Carrie and Stephen Peak-stands to the west. The trail then enters sub alpine forest and shortly afterward breaks out into meadowland flecked with mountain hemlocks. The timbered ridges fade away to the horizon, and Lake Mills is visible through a gap formed by the Elwha. Directly north is Hurricane Hill, and the hiker can see the lodge on Hurricane Ridge. As the trail contours the western slope, Mount Olympus comes into view, partially hidden by the Bailey Range. Mount Carrie and Stephen Peak still dominate the scene, but Ludden Peak now looms to the south. This dark dome, named for Addison Ludden, a Geyser Valley pioneer, was originally called Mount Squire by the Press Expedition to honor Senator Watson C. Squire. Behind the peak rises the bulk of Mount Ferry-named by the Press Party for Elisha P. Ferry, the states first governor. The trail crosses rockslides, and then edges a meadow above the Dodger Likes (10.0 mi/16.1 km; 4900 ft/1494 m). One can camp by the tarns, which, after midsummer, are usually the only source of water beyond the Elwha. This is not running water, of course, and if used for drinking or food preparation, it should be cither boiled or filtered. West of the lakes, away from the trail, spelunkers can find a cave to explore. Nobody should enter the cavern without the security provided by using a fixed rope when making the descent. (Each party must provide its own rope.) Beyond the lakes the country opens into broad, grassy expanses swept by cool breezes from the nearby snowfields. The wind murmurs in the mountain hemlocks on the bordering ridges, and one may hear the squawking of gray jays. Otherwise silence prevails, accenting the solitude, for this is getting into the remote interior of the Olympics, beyond the reach of the casual hiker. The trail meanders across Dodger Basin-which is strewn with sandstone boulders and is snow-covered until midsummer-and climbs to a low, forested ridge, where it intersects the Dodger Point Trail (11.0 mi/17.7 km; 5200 ft/1585 m). (One can go left here 0.5-mi/0.8 km to Dodger Point Lookout.) Beginning at this intersection the Long Ridge Trail and the Dodger Point Trail share the path briefly. The section where they overlap traverses slopes covered with mountain hemlock and sub alpine fir, descending gradually to the second intersection (11.4 mi/18.4 km; 5000 ft/1524 m), on the ridge that connects Dodger Point and Ludden Peak. Here, beside a dark pond, the trails part company. The Long Ridge Trail continues to the right; the Dodger Point Trail goes left. The trailheads westerly as it follows the divide between Long Creek and Goldie River through meadows and groves of sub alpine fir. Stephen Peak stands directly ahead. Turning to the southwest, the path contours the slope that overlooks Louise Creek, a tributary of the Goldie, and then rounds a bend, where Mount Scott comes into view. At this point the route crosses meadows luxuriant with spiraea, mountain ash, and huckleberry, from which there is a beautiful view, across the Goldie, of Mount Claywood and Mount Anderson in the distance. The ridge ascends, but the trail traverses the south side through stands of mountain hemlock, and then breaks out of the dense forest. Here the hiker will notice a faint path descending from the trail to a lower level. This is the beginning of the route to the Bailey Range. The backpacker adept at cross-country travel can leave the trail here and traverse steep mountainsides to the pass (4750 ft/1448 m) between Ludden Peak and Mount Scott, then follow an elk trail to the base of Mount Ferry. Beyond the way path, the Long Ridge Trail traverses the precipitous face of Ludden Peak, where the trail was blasted through ribs of slate. The route crosses several steep ravines, which in early summer are snow-filled chutes. At that time they are dangerous, and one should not attempt to cross without an ice ax. However, it is pointless to go farther because the trail does not go anywhere but ends abruptly (13.0 mi/20.9 km; 5000 ft/1524 m) on a sheer cliff that supports a dense growth of scrubby Alaska cedar. After the creation of Olympic National Park in 1938, the government planned to connect this route with the Bailey Range Trail extending from the High Divide. Because the National Park Service ran short of funds with which to complete the project, both trails now end on cliffs where ledges had to be blasted. However, many backpackers and climbers do not regret this, because it leaves the Bailey Range "forever wild", a realm to be explored by the cross-country traveler.