ELWHA TRAIL Length 28.8 mi/46.4 km Access Whiskey Bend Road USGS Maps Hurricane Hill; Mount Angeles; McCartney Peak; Chimney Peak; Mount Christie; Mount Queets Agency Olympic National Park During the late 1880s the settlers on the Elwha River cut a primitive trail upstream as far as they had taken claims. The Press Expedition extended this route, and today the Elwha Trail more or less coincides with the path the party blazed, except where the route was obliterated by the creation of Lake Mills. The well-kept trail, the main route leading into the mountains from the north, lies entirely within Olympic National Park and follows the river to the Elwha Basin, in the center of the Olympics. Near its point of origin at Whiskey Bend (1198 ft/365 m), the trail passes Winslow Spring, where a pioneer family by that name once had a cabin. Although normally a perpetual source of water, the spring sometimes disappears in late summer, particularly in dry years. The first 4 miles of the Elwha Trail, from Whiskey Bend almost to the junction with the Lillian River Trail, are virtually a pedestrian's boulevard-a broad, smooth path that may well be the most-used trail in the Olympic Mountains. All kinds of people walk the trail, and it is exceptionally popular with equestrians, senior citizens and families with small children. On the other hand, in recent years cougars have become more numerous in this area, and on several occasions have attacked people as well as a pack train. For several miles the trail goes through stands of second-growth fir, at times entering patches of virgin forest. During the early 1900s settlers' fires swept up the mountainsides and destroyed much of the old-growth timber. The bits of original forest that escaped appear, when viewed from a distance, as dark green areas among the lighter-hued second growth. As the trail contours high above the Elwha to avoid Rica Canyon, the river can be heard roaring in the depths, but it is not visible. A spur trail (0.8 mi/1.3 km) descends to the right about 250 yards to Elk Overlook. This rock outcrop was the "Eagle's Nest" used by the Press Expedition as an observation post, and it provides a vista across the Elwha to the meadow that was formerly the Billy Anderson Ranch. Elk often graze here, and the hiker intent on a good view should carry binoculars. At Benchmark Rock (1.0 mi/1.6 km; 1300 ft/396 m), the Elwha Trail enters an area devastated by fire in 1977. The heat apparently damaged the rock, which has started to slide down the mountainside. Near the center of the blackened district, the trail intersects the Rica Canyon Trail (1.1 mi/1.8 km). The trail now contours above Geyser Valley, the bottomland bordering the Elwha between what are now known as Rica Canyon and the Grand Canyon. The Press Expedition gave both gorges more picturesque names. The former they called Goblin Canyon because it began at Goblin Gates. The latter they named Convulsion Canyon inasmuch as the gorge reminded them of an Indian legend in which the Spirit of the Mountains shook the earth, opening up great chasms that swallowed bands of Indians. The trail leaves the bum at a junction with the Krause Bottom Trail (1.5 mi/ 2.4 km) and continues through second-growth forest to a junction with the Long Ridge Trail (1.8 mi/2.9 km; 1150 ft/351 m). The Michaels Ranch cabin stands nearby at the edge of the clearing. Originally the home of Addison "Doc" Ludden, who settled here about 1906, E. O. Michaels, a predator hunter known as Cougar Mike, later occupied the cabin. The cabin has been given historical status by the National Park Service and was restored in 1980. Ludden also built a lodge, which he called Geyser House, but it was destroyed in 1958. The Elwha Trail ascends a bench above Geyser Valley, then again enters the virgin forest. The trunks of the old firs are covered with lichen, and now and then a yew tree clings to the slope below the trail. Between Antelope Creek and Idaho Creek, where the trail contours high above (he latter's canyon, one should watch for Press Party blazes because several well-preserved ones are present on the older trees. They consist of three ax cuts, one above the other. Beyond Idaho Creek the trail follows a glacier-cut terrace as it contours toward Lillian River through stands of second-growth fir. Many trees are not much larger than broomsticks, but a few fire-scarred veterans are scattered among them. The trail then traverses a section where the soil is apparently poor or does not retain water. The trees are stunted, the ferns tiny, the salal only a few inches high. After intersecting the Lillian River Trail (4.1 mi/6.6 km; 1580 fir/482 m) on the brink of Lillian Canyon, the trail descends sharply to Camp Lillian (4.6 mi/7.7 km; 1273 ft/388 m), located in a setting of tall firs and cedars on the bank of the Lillian River. The deep shade is unrelieved, and it is always dark, damp, and gloomy in the canyon, even on warm, sunny days. Several campsites are located on the flats, in the midst of a luxuriant growth of sword ferns. The trail crosses the river, goes by additional camps, then ascends Difficulty Hill, so named by the Press Expedition became the men anticipated their mule would have trouble negotiating the steep grade. The path climbs steadily, occasionally switchbacking, through a forest of stunted firs and madronas, then traverses high above the Grand Canyon of the Elwha. The river roars loudly, but the stream is not visible, although occasionally one can view, through the trees, the heavily forested Elwha Valley. Upon reaching the high point (5-8 mi/9.3 km; 2000 ft/610 m), the trail begins a long, gradual descent to the Elwha, during which it crosses several creeks. The trees are now much larger, the undergrowth more luxuriant. Beyond Prescott Creek, the trail comes out onto the banks of the Elwha (ca. 1200 ft/366 m), where big firs tower above a riverside camp. The trail then climbs over a small rise to Mary's Falls Camp (8.8 mi/14.2 km) and Camp Baltimore (9.0 mi/ 14.5 km). The falls, which give the first camp its name, are located across the river on a creek that tumbles down the eastern slopes of Long Ridge. Of considerable height, the cascade is impressive during the spring and early summer, when the volume of water is large. The trail now has a more or less level grade as it winds through river bottoms, traverses alder and maple glades, and crosses little streams. The path then approaches what the Press Party called Thunder Canyon. The river booms noisily here as it follows a serpentine course between rocky walls. Canyon Camp (10.4 mi/16.7 km; 1400 ft/427 m), located on the river just above the canyon, has a number of excellent sites. The trail then climbs high above a deep pool in the Elwha. Numerous brooks are present here, and the river runs deep and smooth at this point. At Little Elkhorn Camp (11.5 mi/18.5 km; 1450 ft/442 m) the trail enters a grassy meadow bordered by firs and cottonwoods, where one has a view of the river and the timbered mountainsides to the west. Elkhorn Ranger Station is staffed only in the summer months. On the right, toward the river, stand a hikers' shelter and a little barn for pack animals. A campsite where tents may be pitched is located in a grove of trees opposite the ranger's cabin. The trail goes through a grove of large firs at Stony Point. The spot is well named because the forest grows upon what appears to be an ancient rockslide. After crossing Stony Creek, the trail meanders over flats, then ascends and descends as it traverses steep hillsides covered with heavy stands of Douglas fir. The path then enters an area where winds have wrecked the forest for about a mile. More than half the trees have been uprooted or broken. Almost every tree was bowled over in places, and here the logs are often piled up three and four deep; but in nearby spots many trees were left standing. The scene is unsightly. However, it vividly demonstrates not only the power exhibited by nature in a destructive mood but also the rapidity of forest regeneration. Although full recovery will take years, young hemlocks are already springing up. The trail crosses Lost River (12.5 mi/20.1 km), and then rounds a bend, where an old family hideaway, the Remann Cabin, comes into view. The building stands near the edge of the devastated area. Beyond it is the ford (13.0 mi/20.9 km) on the Elwha leading to the Dodger Point Trail. The trail now parallels Semple Plateau, which lies just across the river, then passes the confluence of the Elwha and Goldie Rivers and enters Press Valley (15.0 mi/24.2 km; 1600 ft/488 m). The Press Expedition named all three geographic features: the plateau for Eugene Semple, former governor of Washington Territory; Goldie River for R. H. Goldie of Seattle; and Press Valley for the expedition's sponsoring newspaper. Today's maps restrict the name Press Valley to the flats along the Elwha between the Goldie and Hayes Rivers, but the name was originally applied to the upper Elwha Valley extending from the Goldie to Elwha Basin. The bottomlands broaden in Press Valley, and the trail meanders southward past Tipperary Camp and Chateau Camp to Hayes River Ranger Station (16.7 mi/ 26.9 km; 1680 ft/512 m). At this point the Elwha Trail makes a sharp turn to the cast and parallels Hayes River to an important junction with the Hayden Pass Trail (17.0 mi/27.4 km; 1780 ft/543 m), which ascends the cast side of the Elwha Valley to Hayden Pass, thus providing access to the eastern Olympics. The Elwha Trail then crosses the Hayes River-which was named for Christopher Hayes, a member of the Press Expedition-and resumes its southerly course. Above the Hayes River the Elwha Trail penetrates wild, isolated country beyond the reach of the casual hiker, and the trout fishing is excellent. At irregular intervals the booming of the river resounds through the forest. Towering firs line the trail, their dark crowns outlined against the sky. On the forest floor dense growths of vanilla leaf mingle with thick pads of moss. Lupine grows abundantly in little openings; its bright blue blossoms adding still another contrast. The trail now climbs high above the rushing Elwha, traversing terraces, and then descends to flats along the river, where it meanders among giant firs. In this idyllic setting, cool breezes sweep down from the snowfields above, and the thunderous roar of the river is always present. Beyond Camp Wilder, also called Crackerville (20.9 mi/33.6 km; 1885 ft/ 575 m) the trail trends westward, following the curve of the Elwha, and crosses Godkin Creek, one of the river's larger tributaries, which has its source in the Burke Range, near Bretherton Pass. The route then traverses stands of old Douglas fir as far as Buckinghorse Creek. The trees are huge, and mixed among them are many smaller ones, chiefly silver fir and western hemlock. The trail then crosses to the Elwha's west bank and enters a forest composed almost exclusively of the latter species. Chicago Camp (25.8 mi/41.5 km; 2185 ft/666 m) is located in the midst of dense, damp forest. Nearby is a junction with the Low Divide Trail. Beyond this camp the Elwha Trail follows the river through stands of hemlock, fir, and cedar, and has been rerouted in places due to heavy damage wrought by high winds and flooding caused by severe winter storms. Happy Hollow (27.0 mi/43.5 km; 2400 ft/732 m), the last trail shelter in the valley, is located in an area having few level spaces where one can pitch a tent. Not far beyond, a cave like recess beneath an overhanging rock wall has provided hikers with emergency shelter on more than one occasion. Emerging from the deep forest, the trail crosses the Elwha to the southwest side. Several decades ago Mother Nature bridged the river at this point in the form of a small foot log high above the swift, rushing water. Eventually, floods swept the foot log away, and today one must either wade across or remain on the northeast side where travel is more difficult. If the party elects to cross the Elwha, a fixed rope should be set up so that the people who are crossing can grasp it firmly for support should they lose their footing. On the far side the trail meanders through thick growths of willow and alder near the river, then breaks out into the subalpine mead­ows of Elwha Basin (28.8 mi/46.4 km; 2700 ft/823 m), where it ends. The basin is a deep cleft bordered by snow-clad peaks, cliffs, and cascades. The lower slopes are clothed with conifers; slide alder, and little meadows where elk often graze. Mount Meany and Mount Noyes stand to the southwest; Mount Queets rises to the west. Beyond the open meadows, one can follow an elk path to the basin's upper end, then descend a steep, brushy slope, returning to the river again near the terminus of the Elwha Snow finger. Hikers who are not skilled in cross-country travel should not venture beyond this point. One must cross the Elwha, which may be difficult to do, in order to reach the snowfield, and the latter is often honeycombed with ice caverns, particularly in late summer, making travel upon it hazardous. Experienced and well-prepared hikers consider the long, gradual climb up to historic Dodwell-Rixon Pass (31.5 mi/50.7 km; 4750 ft/1448 m) a pleasant hike in good weather, a miserable one when it is cold and raining. Snow and sleet some­times fall in midsummer, but on hot days hikers welcome the cool breezes that de­scend from the snowy peaks. A number of cascades film down the mountain sides enclosing the narrow trough. Near the top the snowfields become steeper, and the wind blows almost continuously. The snow is often marked by elk tracks, made by the animals during their wanderings between the Elwha Basin and Queets Basin. Occasionally hikers are fortunate and see a band crossing the broad snow fields in Queets Basin. The men that Lieutenant O'Neil sent to climb Mount Olympus were prob­ably the first to cross this pass. They did so on September 19, 1890, then camped near Plutos Gulch in the Queets Basin. The Dodwell-Rixon party, which surveyed the Olympics at the turn of the century, used the pass about a decade later. Then, in 1907, while on their way to Mount Olympus, men from the Explorers Club traversed the pass. Because they believed the surveyors had been the first to cross the gap, they named it for them. The pass is the low point on the divide between the Queets and Elwha Basins, and the panorama is varied. The Elwha Basin, encircled by rugged peaks, lies to the southeast; the Queets Basin, a vast, snowy area, is to the west. Here the winter snow­fall is so heavy that cornices often remain until midsummer. Mount Olympus stands directly west, its pinnacles rising above the Humes Glacier. North of the gla­cier a sharp-pointed ridge extends to Bear Pass (5500 ft/1676 m) and walls in the Queets Basin on the north.