Pargeter's Historical Map of Olympic National Park

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1956 Map of Olympic National Park

1956 ONP Map

Posted with permission of the author. Download a full resolution copy (4220x3200 pixels, 3.6 MB jpg) at this link. Information printed on the back of the map is shown below.

1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map

1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map

Highlights of lookouts, shelters and trails shown on the 1956 map.

Lookouts (13) - Hurricane Hill, Dodger Point*, Mt. Pleasant, Blue Mtn., Mt. Zion, Mt. Townsend, Mt. Walker, Mt. Jupiter, Webb, Chapel Pk., Stovepipe Mtn., Kloochman Rk., Bogachiel Pk.
* the only one surviving today

Shelters (102)
Elwha - Lillian, Mary's Falls, Upper Canyon, Elkhorn (2)(1*), Hayes, Wilder*, Chicago Camp, Boulder Lake
Hurricane - Halfway Rock, Heather Park, Lake Angeles (2)
Gray Wolf - Camp Colonel, Camp Tony, Gray Wolf, Three Forks*, Falls, Lower Cameron, Upper Cameron, Deer Park (2*)
Dungeness - Gold Creek, Silver Creek*, River*, Roy Cr. Cabin, Camp Handy*, Boulder*
Quilcene - Bark Shanty, Tenmile*, Sink Lake, Tunnel Creek*, (note: Shelter Rock cabin)
Dosewallips - Dosie Forks (3), Camp Marion, Bear Camp*, Dose Meadows, Diamond Meadows, Anderson Pass*
Duckabush - Five Mile, Ten Mile, Upper Duckabush, Marmot Lake, Heart Lake, Home Sweet Home
Hamma Hamma - Lower Lena Lake (2)
North Fork Skokomish - Big Creek, Camp Pleasant, Nine Stream, Flapjack Lakes
South Fork Skokomish - Church Cr.*, Camp Harps*
Six Ridge - Sundown Lake, Belview
Satsop - Upper Satsop Lake
East Fork Humptulips - East Fork
West Fork Humptulips - West Fork*, Campbell*, Gold Springs, Mulky*
East Fork Quinault - Graves Creek, O'Neil Cr., Enchanted Valley Chalet*
North Fork Quinault - Wolf Bar, Halfway House, Francis Cr., 16 Mile, Low Divide
Skyline - Three Lakes, Three Prune
Queets - Sams River, Tshletsky, Spruce Bottom, Bob Creek, Pelton Creek
Hoh - Big Flat, South Fork Patrol Cabin, Mt. Tom, Happy Four*, Olympus*, Olympic, Elk Lake*, Hoh Lake (2)
Bogachiel - (Bogachiel RS off map), Flapjack Patrol Sta., 15 Mile*, Hyak*, 21 Mile*
South Fork Calawah - Calawah
Sitkum - Sitkum
Sol Duc - Sourdough, North Fork*, Solduc Falls, Sevenmile, Upper Sol Duc, Heart Lake, Lunch Lake, Round Lake, Deer Lake (2)(1*)
* the 26 of these 102 shelters which survive today, 15 NPS and 11 USFS.

Abandoned Trails - Griff Peak loop, upper Lillian River, lower Little Quilcene, Townsend Creek, lower Tunnel Creek, Karnes Lake, Muscott Basin to Wildcat Lake, lower Mount Jupiter, upper Hamma Hamma River, Jefferson Lake, Church Creek, Humpnoochee, Litchey Creek, Rustler Creek, Sams River, Tshletshy Creek, upper Queets to Hee Hee Cr., Kloochman Rock, upper South Fork Hoh, Mount Tom Creek, North Snider Jackson (Sitkum section), upper Barnes Creek to Baldy Ridge and Happy Lake.

Thanks to Olympic College, Hazelwood Library, George W. Martin Collection their hospitality.

Richard Pargeter: ranger, climber and mapmaker.

Pargeter's association with the Olympic National Park began in earnest in 1951 and '52, when he was a seasonal fire guard at Sol Duc and Staircase, and participated in George W. Martin's mountaineering program at Olympic College. In 1953, Pargeter and his newlywed wife Dee were seasonal rangers at Graves Creek, in '54 at Sol Duc and in '55 at Dosewallips and Staircase Ranger Stations.

His first map "Olympics in Relief" was drawn in 1954-55 and printed in 1956. It is a four-color pen-and-ink relief depiction. This was a significant map for hikers, as some 3000 copies were sold in 3 printings.

1956 ONP Map spacer 1956 ONP Map
George Martin with Pargeter's 1956 Olympics map spacer Richard Pargeter and George Martin

The story behind the creation of his first map of the Olympics and his subsequent North Cascades map is told by Richard Pargeter at the invitation of Dee Molenaar. Originally published in the premier Jan-Feb 1965 issue of Summit magazine, it is posted with permission of both authors.
1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map
Pargeter went on to draw a series of detailed panoramic relief maps of the Cascades, Olympics, Puget Sound and San Juan Islands. To view these, see Metsker maps and Panorama Maps.

Pargeter participated in numerous rescue and recovery operations on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley and in the Cascades and Olympics as an active member of Seattle Mountain Rescue Council for eight years.

Thanks to the George W. Martin Collection, Hazelwood Library, Olympic College, Bremerton for its hospitality.

Richard Pargeter, founder of Friends of Olympic Trail Shelters

Between 1970 and 1976, under Superintendent Roger Allin, Olympic NP removed 43 of its 90 trail shelters, without advance public notice or discussion. Alarmed, Richard Pargeter and career NPS ranger Jack Nattinger formed Friends of Olympic Trail Shelters (FOOTS). This is an illustrative example of the many FOOTS newsletters.

1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map

Their concerns were shared by hundreds of others, including Eileen McMackin, editor of WTA Signpost magazine, Larry Penbarthy, founder of MSR, Ira Spring, photographer, author and co-founder of WTA, authors Robert Wood, Dee Molenaar and Carsten Lien, Seattle Times columnist Jack Hauptli, and most influentially, Congressman Don Bonker.

A letter-writing campaign to newspapers, members of Congress, and NPS officials at the local, regional and national level resulted in the imposition, by NPS Regional Director Russell Dickenson, of a moratorium on the removal of trail shelters. Newly appointed Superintendent James Coleman initiated a series of public workshops on shelter policy, held in 1977.

Olympic National Park received 1,416 written public comments:
86% favoring retaining all shelters (FOOTS position),
13% favoring keeping some and removing some (NPS position), and
1% favoring removing all shelters (Olympic Park Associates position).

Nevertheless, in 1980, new Superintendent Roger Contor proposed to remove three more shelters. In response, National Park Legal Defense Fund joined FOOTS in filing a lawsuit in the Federal District Court, which enjoined NPS from removing these shelters.

1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map
Although this lawsuit was eventually dismissed in 1986, it provided an important reprieve.

Pargeter kept this issue in the public eye by publishing a series of "Special Shelter Controversy" editions of his later map (posted with the author's permission).
1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map 1956 ONP Map

In 1993, archaeologist Dr. Paul Gleeson joined Olympic NP as its first director of Cultural Resources. Under his guidance, the Park fully documented the remaining shelters and listed them on the National Register of Historic Places. NPS policy, as expressed in Olympic NP's 2008 General Management Plan, is to maintain the 17 shelters which remain, although we continue to lose them at the rate of about one a year.

In addition, Olympic Park Associates 2005 lawsuit prevented the replacement of Low Divide and Home Sweet Home shelters.

FOOTS continues as an active group of volunteers, having restored eight shelters in Olympic NF and one in Olympic NP, and continuing their preventative maintenance.

We owe the survival of those few historic Olympic trail shelters which remain, in no small part, to Richard Pargeter.

1956 ONP Map

Thanks to Richard Pargeter for his hospitality and permission to post copyrighted materials, and to Olympic National Park archives for other documents posted above.

Comment from Ancient Ambler on on Sat Mar 02, 2013:

Thanks so much, RodF, for all your work not only in finding this gem of a map but in getting permission from the author to post it here and for gathering information on him and posting it. I'll definitely be spending some time with this one. Just glancing at the map I'd note that Pargeter shows the now long-abandoned trail heading very high into Pyrites Basin off the East Fork Quinault, so you might want to add that one to your list of abandoned trails. Not to be an OCD jackass about it, but it appears that Peak 6049 is labelled as Muncaster Mountain on the map, but today Muncaster Mountain is considered to be about 4.5 miles SW of Peak 6049, which could be confusing for some looking at the map today. I noted also that Pargeter's map shows the way trail that runs from Upper Lena Lake over to Scout Lake, which is not on any USGS map that I know of but does exist, or at least did exist when I was last there long ago. It was also interesting to note that the Dungeness Road on this map terminates at the confluence of the Gray Wolf and Dungeness Rivers. That made for a very long hike up into Royal Basin and is one of the reasons that a lot of first ascents in the Needles were not made until 1962, when the road was pushed in a lot farther, according to a guy I know who was in a group of Bremerton teenagers who did a lot of first ascents in that area. Anyway, thanks to you, RodF, and Richard Pargeter for making this wonderful map available.

Reply from Rodf on on Sat Mar 02, 2013:

Ancient Ambler wrote:

Not to be an OCD jackass about it, but it appears that Peak 6049 is labelled as Muncaster Mountain on the map, but today Muncaster Mountain is considered to be about 4.5 miles SW of Peak 6049, which could be confusing for some looking at the map today.

Good catch! Muncaster is shown on the 1950 USGS Mt. Christy 15' sectional, and peak 6049 on the 1947 USGS Mt. Steel, both of which would've been available to Pargeter. Prior to that, there was some ambiguity about the topography and naming of several peaks in the Burke Range (Mt. Lawson, etc.).

Thanks also for noting the additional way trails/routes.

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